Introduction
In honour to the King,
who fought for the independency of Cambodia the provincial capital was called
Sihanouk Ville. Located in the southwest corner of Cambodia, 232km from Phnom
Penh, Sihanouk Ville can be reached via National Highway No 4. White-sand
beaches that include O’chheuteal, Sokha, Pram Pichaen, and Doeum Chrey beautify
this coastal city. These beaches are known for their quiet, cozy atmosphere and
the large stretches of white sand and clear waters and these make them popular
spots for families on vacation. These seaside paradises with the refreshing
coolness of the fresh water streams can be enjoyed all year round.
Business opportunities in
Sihanouk Ville are varied from financial activities to tourist and
travel-related industries in conjunction with the government's objective of
making Sihanouk Ville a major tourist destination besides its status as an
International Offshore Financial Centre. The government welcomes both foreign
as well as local investors to participate on a joint-venture basis.
This famous see side
resort is formed by wide and huge streets and quite new big concrete buildings,
which lost any impression former architectonical of colonial style. As the town
is not a small place due to it's wide spread urban areas, the best way to get
around is to hire a motorbike. Beside the nice beaches and some very nice
vantage points there isn't that much to see in the town itself.
To catch a nice view on
the city you best climb the small hill to Wat Leu. Wat Krom is another place of
interest as this is a recently build pagoda, because the older one was
destroyed by the Khmer Rouge and it houses a sanctuary called Yeay Mao, the
guardian of the cost. Nearby to the town there are nice places for a detour
such as the Ream National Park and the beautiful Kbal Chhay Waterfall.
Koh Song Saa = Sweet Heart Island |
Sihanouk
Ville History
Sihanouk Ville entered the
history of the American/Vietnam conflict when, during the late 1960’s and early
70’s, it served as a transit point for weapons bound for anti-American forces
in Vietnam. The town’s most direct involvement came on May 13, 1975
when the Khmer Rouge captured the S.S. Mayaguez, a U.S. container ship. As part
of an attempt to release the ship, the U.S. attacked Koh Tang, an island near
Sihanouk Ville, and met fierce resistance, suffering heavy losses. American
bombers struck the naval base at Ream, warehouses at the Port, the old airport,
the train yard and the oil refinery north of town. The ship and its crew were
released May 15, during the battle.
During the UN sponsored
elections in 1992 and 1993, Sihanouk Ville played host to the Australian,
Belgian and French contingents of UNTAC (United Nations Transitional Authority
in Cambodia). After the elections, foreign tourists started coming to Sihanouk
Ville for the first time, but tourism came to an abrupt halt with the tragic
1994 Khmer Rouge murders of 3 backpackers taken from a train on the way to
Sihanouk Ville, and of 3 expatriates taken from a taxi on Route 4. With the
1997-98 demise of the Khmer Rouge and the political/military stability of the
last couple of years, both the road and the train are now (in 2000) considered
safe, at least from any military threat. But political and legal fallout of the
murders continue as the home countries and relatives of the victims demand
justice, and the UN and Cambodian government struggle with the political and
legal complexities of bringing the perpetrators to trial.
Sihanouk
Ville Geography
A small archipelago is
embedded by the Sihanouk Ville Bahia off its south and west coast. The
commercial and international port is located at the northwest. The limits of
its territory: North and West Koh Kong province, East Kampot province and south
Gulf of Thailand.
The peninsula is separated
from the central plains of Cambodia by the Damrei Mountains, especially the
Bokor. The city is also besides the Ream National Park (210 km2) and it
includes the islands of Koh Thmei and Koh Sei.
Being a rather small
province, Sihanouk Ville has two main urban centers: the port itself and the
Prey Nob District, 46 kilometers from Sihanouk Ville downtown to the north. The
city is connected to Phnom Penh by National Road No. 4; to Kampot Province by
NR 3 and to Koh Kong Province.
Climate
The country has a tropical climate - warm and humid. In the
monsoon season, abundant rain allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of
crops. This year-round tropical climate makes Cambodia ideal for developing
tourism. Travelers need not to fear natural disasters such as erupting
volcanoes or earthquakes, and the country is not directly affected by tropical
storms.
Climate: Cambodia can be
visited throughout the year. However, those plans to travel extensively by road
should be avoided the last two months of the rainy season when some countryside
roads may be impassable. The average temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius;
the minimum temperature is about 16 degrees. December and January are the
coolest months, whereas the hottest is April.
General information about
the provincial climate:
-Cool season: November- March (20 -
28c)
-Hot season: March- May (26 - 35c)
-Rainy season: May - October (24 -34c, with humidity
up to 90%)
The best beach weather
begins with the end of the rains in November. The dry, warm, breezy weather
that follows lasts through January. Night temperatures can get down to a chilly
20c but the days hover around 28-30c. Many think December and January are best
with their balmy temperatures and blue skies.
At the end of January,
Sihanouk Ville begins to warm and continues to get hotter through July (maximum
35c). After February, cool “mango showers” occasionally blow in from the north.
December through June is said by some local outfitters to be the best scuba
weather with clearer (though cooler) waters than the rest of the year.
Sihanouk Ville Population
The current population in this province is about 235,190 people
or 1.6% of the country's total population (14,363,519 person in Cambodia, 2007,
provincial government data), with 117,250 male and 117,940 female. The
population density is therefore 271 people per square kilometer.
Economy
Sihanouk Ville is for
sure largely tourism-based but additional financial and industrial initiatives
are also underway. One major government objective is to make Sihanouk Ville a
premier tourist destination as well as an International Offshore Financial
Centre. Foreign and local investors are invited to participate in a range of
joint business and financial ventures. The agricultural sector of Sihanouk
Ville plays definitely not a big role in the provincial economy, as the rocky
peninsula isn’t the place for cropping and such things.
Shopping
Several convenience
stores/small supermarkets are now scattered across the town, offering a good
selections of all of the usual traveler's needs. And now there are even a few
cool souvenirs to be had in Sihanouk Ville. There are some good T-shirts
available at bars and guesthouses and some cool clothing and accessories for
sale at places like Boom Room. Of particular interest, the very popular
NGO-based Cambodian arts and crafts association, Rajana, has just opened its
first outlet in Sihanouk Ville, located above the Starfish Caf.
The Rajana shop has a
good selection of Cambodian arts and crafts, jewellery, textiles, coffees,
spices and more. Another local NGO, M Lop Tapang, offers products made and
marketed by disadvantaged women under the Mother under the Tree, Snardai
project. Available are at Holy Cow, Starfish Caf, and Geckozy.
A souvenir unique to
Sihanouk Ville: scale model wooden Cambodian fishing boats handcrafted by a
local French shipwright. The models are detailed wooden miniatures of fishing
boats used along Cambodia's coast, and are accurate copies inside and out. Each
is individually numbered. Available is at Map Water Sports.
Tourist
Attractions in Sihanouk Ville
Doeum
Chrey Beach
Independence Beach
The Independence Beach in
Sihanouk Ville is a calm and quiet sea side destination in the city of numerous
beaches. It is just the place for you to spend some quiet moments with your
loved ones while taking pleasure in the untamed beauties of nature. With no
interruption at all, you can spend time in this Sihanouk Ville sightseeing spot
just the way you want to.
Relaxing and watching the
quiet movements of nature are the best things that you can do at the
Independence Beach in Sihanouk Ville in Cambodia. You can literally lie down
while sun bathing on the spotless clean seaside, while the cool sea breeze brushes
your face. If you get too tired of the heat then you can always rest under
shades of the grass umbrellas that are so popular here. The Independence Beach
of Sihanouk Ville is also ideal for enjoying a nice picnic with friends, family
and loved ones. Moreover there are several small restaurants and food corners
in the area of the Independence Beach in Sihanouk Ville, thus keeping you fully
supplied with delicious sea food dishes during you visit here.
Adjacent to the
Independence Beach in Sihanouk Ville is also a lush green garden area, well
maintained and decorated with statues. Thus offering so many great things this
is one of the beaches in Sihanouk Ville that is surely worth a visit.
Kbal Chhay
Waterfall
The Kbal Chhay Waterfalls
at Sihanouk Ville is situated on the Prek Teuk Sap River located about 30
minutes away from Sihanouk Ville. These falls can be best viewed during the wet
season in Sihanouk Ville. The wet season in Sihanouk Ville occurs between July
to October. It is during this time that the Kbal Chhay Waterfalls in Sihanouk
Ville is the most attractive with white froth of water cascading down. During
the dry season however the Kbal Chhay Waterfalls in Sihanouk Ville remains
almost non existent with water just managing to trickle down.
The Kbal Chhay Waterfalls
of Sihanouk Ville, Cambodia is actually a collection of 3meters to 5 meters
high waterfalls which originates from different sources along the mountain
ranges. However, only three out of the collection can be sighted. Besides being
just a picturesque sight, the location of the Kbal Chhay Waterfalls in Sihanouk
Ville is also a popular picnic spot where you can spend you day amongst the greenery
and serene natural ambience of Kbal Chhay Waterfalls in Sihanouk Ville. The
area also offers abundance of food and drink stand that drink stands for
refreshments if you need any.
Location is at Khan Prey
Nup in seven-Kilometer distance from the Sihanouk Ville Town, then turning left
more nine Kilometers by a red soil road. The waterfall of Kbal Chhay has many
sources from the mountain rank at the seaside. The history of Kbal Chhay
waterfall was found in 1960. Until 1963 Kbal Chhay arranged as the clean-water
sources for providing to Sihanouk Ville, but the arrangement was failed became
a hidden place for Khmer Rouge. In 1997, Kbal Chhay was changed to the
developing zone. In 1998 Kbal Chhay was for bid by Kok An Company on
constructing road and changing this site as tourist resort for local and
international tourists. Nowadays, the Royal Government of Cambodia has changed
this site as the clean-water sources for providing clean water to Sihanouk
Ville.
Koh
Pous (Snake Island)
The island of Koh Pous is situated 800 meters offshore from
beach Hawai in Sihanoukville (Snake Island). The island is mostly preserved
jungle habitat, providing a harmonious place for monkeys, king cobras, pythons
and other poison snakes. On the north side of the island is a charming beach
popular with fishermen who enjoyed swimming and relaxing after a hard days
work. The island is mainly popular with the adventure tourist. Koh Pous is a
little rocky but is convenient.
Very few Cambodia tour makers come here because it is still
undeveloped. So those Cambodia tour makers visit Koh Pous (Snake Island) in
groups and bring their own food during their Cambodia holiday.
The island is peacefully removed from the noise and congestion of everyday
life, yet just a minute away over the private bridge from Sihanoukville, the
third largest Cambodian city.
Koh Pous Island, Sihanoukville, Cambodia–a few short years ago an exotic destination attracting adventurous vacationers, sport fishermen and scuba divers from around the world. Today the area is destined to become the new “gold coast” location of South-East Asia.
The coastal Preah Sihanouk province is considered as the country's third
economic pole after the capital Phnom Penh and the main destination of cultural
and historical heritage areas of Siem Reap-Angkor Wat temples.
Koh Rong
Island
For years Koh Rong was
almost completely undeveloped save for a diving outfit and a few bungalows,
though that has now changed beyond recognition, in particular on the southern
patch of Koh Touch. The rapid development has mostly affected this stretch of
yellow-white, southeast-facing sand, which now resembles nothing so much as our
image of a mid-18th century Caribbean pirate port, only with party bars instead
of brothels.
Serviced by the fast boat
from Sihanoukville as the fourth stop, Koh Touch is a sandy, guesthouse-packed
stretch that has earned Koh Rong its party-island reputation. We found that to
be largely true still, though there are plenty of other businesses along here
that are seeking to offer something a little more profound. It may take a
little while to get there, but they’re working on it.
The main beaches away from
Koh Touch include Long Beach (also known as Sok San Beach, and 7km Beach), Long
Set Beach (aka 4k Beach), Coconut Beach, Palm Beach and Lonely Beach. There are
even more among Koh Rong’s seven bays, but weather prevented us from getting to
them.
Dotted among the bays,
visitors can indulge in diving, snorkelling, mountain biking, trekking,
kayaking and boat trips. At night, watch the luminous trails the phytoplankton
leave behind.
The island is so gorgeous
in fact that a film production company has set up a permanent base here on
Soksan Beach, making the most of the deserted beaches and exceedingly beautiful
waters for filming all sorts of movies and programmes, including reality TV
show Survivor.
Koh Touch:
We felt a real sense of
community among many of the business owners on Koh Touch, who have banded
together to set up things like Friends of Koh Rong, which supports community
development projects, the local school, healthcare and cultural projects,
especially for the kids of migrant workers, the people who likely built the guesthouse
you’re staying in. They’re responsible for setting up the medical centre, which
was behind Coco’s when we visited in mid-2016, but is moving, which provides
free healthcare to locals, as well as advice and support to travellers.
On that note, the island
has not been
set up with a system for managing wastewater yet, and while leases are so pre-
carious it’s hard for individual businesses to band together to deal with the
problem, as it will require a notinconsiderable investment. In that case,
don’t ignore—as we did, despite the warnings we’d received—small cuts on your
feet. They will turn very nasty if not covered and regularly cleaned.
Sok San:
A handful of other one-off
resorts are set around the island at Lonely Beach and Palm Beach, while Coconut
Beach has seen its options jump up to four, and there is now a similar offering
on our favourite beach, Long Set, just a little east along from Koh Touch. Many
of these organise their own boats from Sihanoukville. From Koh Touch, the
interior of the island is largely undeveloped and travelling between beaches
requires trekking or a boat; the latter is relatively expensive.
The Cambodian government
has sold Koh Rong to an investment group, which has plans to build an airport
and "ecological" resort. Development activities have so far had
something of a stop-start-stop quality to them, though the plans for a
five-star hotel and casino at the southern end of Long Beach look set to be
realized by December 2016. Based on what we’ve seen so far, beauty and
congruity are not going to be among its chief attractions. Long Beach, in all
its... longness. Photo: Nicky Sullivan
Koh Rong Samleum is a
peaceful “getaway” destination which is much more tranquil and also much less
developed than the larger island known as Koh Rong situated about a ten-minute
boat ride to the north.
The clean beaches of the
smaller island suffer substantially less of the noise and light pollution that
has become a problem on the sister island due to the extensive construction
work as well as the all-night bars and party music that blasts out to attract
the budget travelers dancing through the night.
Samleum is being actively
protected by the project to maintain
the unspoiled natural beauty of the island, keep the pristine beaches clean and
minimize the noise and light pollution that impacts the indigenous animal
population.
There are now many levels of accommodation available on the island from luxurious air-conditioned Khmer-style villas right on the beach through to the numerous beach bungalow complexes that dot the shoreline of Saracen Bay and Mpay Bay as well as on a few other secluded beaches. For those traveling on a budget there are guesthouse rooms available in Mpay Bay fishing village.
Moonlight Resort The One Resort The Pipes Resort |
"What the beaches of
Thailand were like 20 years ago... utterly serene and beautiful. Calm, clear
water laps lazily on idyllic white sand beaches, and there's not much else to
do but kick back and enjoy the sun, sand and waves. Word will get out -- it
always does. So get to these islands before they become overrun with
tourists"
Now that news of the
spectacular natural attractions on the island are spreading over the internet
and with the growth of the high quality accommodation options right on the
beach the island is seeing a large increase in visitors looking for more
luxurious waterfront bungalows. This has resulted in many bungalow operations
upgrading their facilities differentiating the island from its neighbouring
island of Koh Rong which appeals more to the budget conscious all-night
partying single travelers.
There are comfortable
bungalows suitable for honeymooners and romantic couples searching for the
deserted tropical island experience as well as a growth in accommodation
suitable for families with children including resorts that have 24 hour
electricity, air conditioning, a swimming pool and family bungalows with
multiple rooms.
The 2016/17 high season
consists of the period from November through May, which is the usual tourist
season for Cambodia, as well as the European holiday season of July and August.
Koh Rong Samleum measures approximately nine kilometres long and five
kilometres at its widest point although the distance from Saracen Bay on the
sunrise side of the island to the sunset side of the island is little more than
a pleasant one-kilometre walk through the jungle and boats can be hired for
trips around the island to visit the different beaches.
Saracen Bay
Saracen Bay Beach |
M'Pai Bay
Scuba diving and fishing trips are
available from the island and can be arranged through the locals or the
bungalow operators. Also there are great places for snorkeling around the
island if you tire of lazing on the beach or swimming in the pure turquoise
waters.
Kayaking, jungle trekking and mountain biking are just some of the
organized activities that are offered although the majority of visitors are
content to kick back and enjoy the beautiful beaches and amazing views.
Internet and mobile telephone coverage is available at most places using a
local SIM card and the data transfer tends to be quite slow along with the
island's pace of life. It is recommended to buy a Metfone SIM card with a data
plan for a handful of dollars before leaving for the island in order to get
cheap access to the network as this seems to offer the strongest signal and
have the greatest coverage. An increasing number of bungalow operators are
supplying a high speed internet connection although it is currently only
available at the more luxurious places as this is expensive for the resort
owners
Boat Sihanoukville to Koh Rong Samloem: Return boat fares from Sihanoukville cost around $ 20.00 - $ 30.00 depending on the type of boat and can be purchased from the booking offices by Serendipity Beach Pier or purchased from the agencies offering accommodation on the island which are mostly found in and around Serendipity Beach Road in Sihanoukville.
Boats can also be found for
the short hop over to the larger and more developed party island of Koh Rong.
MoneyGet Cash Out at Green Ocean Guesthouse on Koh Touch
Because this is so regularly misreported by outdated blogs and websites, we thought we’d clarify – Although there is no ATM on Koh Rong Island as such, you can still get cash out at any of the three Eftpos terminals on Koh Touch – the main tourist area on the island. Currently, there is an Eftpos terminal at Green Ocean Guesthouse, White Rose Guesthouse, and Koh Lanta. There is also an Eftpos terminal on Saracen Bay – the main tourist area on Koh Rong Samloem.
An Eftos terminal works just like a normal purchase, but you are buying your own money. Many bank cards are accepted here, so it is a very useful service if you need cash. There is a 10% charge however, so it may still be a good idea to take sufficient cash with you before you go (please try to bring small denominations ($) as it can be difficult to exchange large notes).
Song Saa Islands
"Forget the Maldives, this is the really place to
be…Song Saa Island Cambodia. This first private island in Cambodia has it all.
In pure Maldivian style it has rustic over water villas where from the glass
floor in your lounge area you can be amazed at the variety of marine life
living under your feet, this comes after you have softly awoken with your first
sight of the blue sky, and sea, which blends in with your infinity private
pool. Also a stair on your sun deck will give you access to the sea where you
can say hello to the friendly fishes."
In the sapphire waters of the Gulf of Thailand, Cambodia’s
islands nestle like dazzling natural jewels. Song Saa Private Island lies
secluded in this magnificent seascape, just 30 minutes by boat from the
international airport of Sihanoukville.
Most of the islands remain undeveloped deserted oases of
virgin rainforests, tropical reefs and glistening white beaches.
Get Cash Out at Green Ocean Guesthouse on Koh Touch |
An Eftos terminal works just like a normal purchase, but you are buying your own money. Many bank cards are accepted here, so it is a very useful service if you need cash. There is a 10% charge however, so it may still be a good idea to take sufficient cash with you before you go (please try to bring small denominations ($) as it can be difficult to exchange large notes).
"Forget the Maldives, this is the really place to be…Song Saa Island Cambodia. This first private island in Cambodia has it all. In pure Maldivian style it has rustic over water villas where from the glass floor in your lounge area you can be amazed at the variety of marine life living under your feet, this comes after you have softly awoken with your first sight of the blue sky, and sea, which blends in with your infinity private pool. Also a stair on your sun deck will give you access to the sea where you can say hello to the friendly fishes."
In the sapphire waters of the Gulf of Thailand, Cambodia’s islands nestle like dazzling natural jewels. Song Saa Private Island lies secluded in this magnificent seascape, just 30 minutes by boat from the international airport of Sihanoukville.Most of the islands remain undeveloped deserted oases of virgin rainforests, tropical reefs and glistening white beaches.
In the sapphire waters of the Gulf of Thailand, Cambodia’s
islands nestle like dazzling natural jewels. Song Saa Private Island lies
secluded in this magnificent seascape, just 30 minutes by boat from the
international airport of Sihanoukville.
Most of the islands remain undeveloped deserted oases of
virgin rainforests, tropical reefs and glistening white beaches.
While Cambodia’s islands share the same dazzling qualities
that made Thailand’s islands so famous, they remain a truly unspoiled paradise.
You’ll be among the first foreigners to experience this
beautiful, untouched world, where rare hornbills will land close to you. In
this private intimate setting, you will lose yourself in the natural world. No
intrusions. No work.
The facilities of the
resort: Over-water restaurant,
beach bar, Champagne bar,
swimming pool, gym, water-sports and dive center, children’s club, and marine
education center. A wellness center and nature trails are located on an
adjacent private island, accessible via a footbridge.
The resort is unlike
anything else in the archipelago, with its oversize pool villas, Khmer-inspired
cooking by Chef Neil Wager (who came over from Seychelles’ North Island), and
many other indulgences.
Don't miss a night at the
movies. Relax in your private sala with a glass of wine and bowl of popcorn
while the butler sets up a large sail screen and projector for an al fresco
screening of the movie of your choice.
Koh Russei (Bamboo island)
My island life, as it turns out, is pretty awesome.
Somehow I manage to wake up around 8am, something I’m completely incapable of
elsewhere. A quick swim, some breakfast, a book, a hammock, eventually lunch,
my Moleskine, my thoughts. Life is good. Repeat in the afternoon. Sunset.
Dinner, drinks, loud music at night. Stars, phosphorescent algae, a campfire.
Life is very good."
Koh Russei: is really a jewel
of a beach with fine pink or ochre sand and a deep and mysterious forest. For
those loving the sun falling into the sea whilst surrounded by jungle sounds,
Koh Russei is the place. An island of gentleness. An island of passion. Its
virgin, private and intimate characteristics make it a site for high-end
development, and positively compare with the world's most exclusive sites.
The best time to visit islands is during the monsoon
season. Between November and February, northerly winds pick up and can make the
group more difficult to navigate.
There are currently five resorts of basic wooden bungalows
on Russei. Four are situated on the beach where the boats come in and only one
makes use of the terrific and pristine sand of the other. The ten-minute walk
between beaches is a pleasant one; they're connected by a path that traverses
the island through a jungle forest filled with deafening cicadas.
At Bamboo Island, all bunga- lows are equipped
with fans and mosquito nets. Toilets and cold water showers are shared. The
generator runs when it's dark and goes off about 11pm.
Just four kilometres and one hour away from the mainland, Koh Ta Kiev is one of the closest islands to Sihanouk ville and on the itinerary of many of the popular day trips and island tours that leave from the town and O’Tres Beach. Not so many people stay overnight on the island though, which is a shame because it's beautiful and has a few easily accessible beaches.
Like most of the islands
in Cambodia, Koh Ta Kiev has been leased to a foreign company the same
French outfit that owns, or has taken 99-year leases, on half of Koh Russei and
parts of Ream
National Park. They have ambitious
plans for high-end resorts and boutique luxury hotels, though there was no sign
that so much as a sod had been turned when we visited in mid-2016.
A second 99 year lease
has been granted to a Chinese Malaysian firm who, according to media reports,
plan to spend US2-3 billion dollars "developing" the island. All they
seem to have done so far is trip down an awful lot of trees in order to create
a road wide enough to be a dual carriage-way through the forest. Nothing more
seems to have come of that yet either, though of course one never knows.
Three lovely yellow-sand
beaches shaded by pine trees are accessible on the island, and coral reefs make
for excellent snorkeling. Crusoe Island is at the northernmost end of Long
Beach, then Koh Ta Kiev and Ten 103 Bungalows, with Coral Beach at the
southernmost, tucked around the corner from Ten 103 with its own secluded bay.
It's possible to walk the entire stretch -- Coral Beach is accessed through the
bar area of Ten 103. The pine needles make this long sandy stretch of sand seem
less “pure” than it might otherwise feel, and the tide comes in high so it
isn't all that wide either. On the other side of the island, Last Point and
Koh Tang: It is quite far from the main
shoreline of Preah Sihanouk province. Going there requires to stay overnight on
board. The island offers many interesting diving spots which are seldom
explored.
This island is home to a military outpost and travelers
should expect to be boarded by military personnel when out at the island.
Best
places to stay in Koh Ta Kiev
A
selection of some of our favourite places to stay in Koh Ta Kiev.
Ten 103 Tree house Bay Our rating:
Crusoe Island Our rating:
Koh Tang
Koh Tang is an awesome place to travel to if you have passed
your Open Water course and really want to experience some deep waters. The
visibility is fantastic, with most divers reporting views of at least 20 metres
every day".
The island is rock fringed
with its highest point at its northern extremity. Two shallow coves press into
the eastern and western neck of its northern plateau. The eastern cove has a
long shallow coral sand beach.
The small islet Koh
Mul/Tuich lies about 1.3 km to the East and Koh Domloung (potato) island about
2.2 km to the South. The islets Koh Tee Mui (8.4 km off) and Koh Tee Bpi (9.6
km off) complete the Koh Tang archipelago.
On 1975 U.S. Marines
on board U.S. Air Force helicopters landed on the island in hopes of finding
the crew of the SS Mayagüez, which had been captured by Khmer Rouge gunboats on
May 12.
The crew of the merchant
vessel were not on the island as U.S. Intelligence had reported, but had been
transferred from the ship to the nearby Cambodian port town of Sihanouk ville.
This city on the mainland is also known as Kampong Saom. The capture of the
vessel SS Mayagüez by Khmer Rouge forces and subsequent assault on Koh Tang
became known as the Mayagüez Incident.
Koh Tang today is mostly forgotten as the last
battle ground of the Vietnam War. Underwater there are no visible artifacts or
evidence that the battle ground was here. The USA MIA teams are still looking
for a helicopter lost and never recovered during the Mayaguez incident, but
many here speculate that it was found a long time ago, and like the other
submerged wrecks in this part of South East Asia was salvaged for the metals
that they are composed of.
Koh
Thmei is part of Ream
National Park but this hasn't
stopped the government from selling a substantial amount of the island to the
highest bidder. Right now the island is mostly empty; although a few families
live on the island, there's not so much as a village and the only current
accommodation is the eight wooden bungalows that comprise Koh Thmei Resort. Their owners believe that they
were allowed to open because of their eco-friendly policies; they power it by
day using solar panels and have a complex natural water filtration system.
You'll occasionally find the local police drinking beers there who have a
station round the corner — a 10-minute walk away along a narrow, long stretch
of sandy and shell beach from the small resort.
They've promised to protect
at least 40% of the island but we're not holding our breath. No white sand, but
still pretty.
A week before our last trip
here, in late 2014, the first inklings of action seemed to have taken place —
though in Cambodia this doesn't necessarily mean much more will happen for
months, if not years. The diggers had moved in and cut down a stretch of forest
to create a clearing for what may become a road and, in time, no doubt the
resort that is the nightmare of most seekers of natural, deserted,
tropical-island beauty. This is taking place at the other end of the island
from Koh Thmei Resort, where you'll be pleased to know you'll only hear the
lapping of waves.
Thus the island
remains practically pristine. Flanked by mangrove forests, the island is a
natural paradise that is as far from Sihanoukville as night is from day. Koh
Thmei is the habitat of many types of interesting wildlife, particularly birds.
Over 150 types of birds make their home in the park and a trip to the island
offers ample bird-watching opportunities. To be fair, they seem to have their
share of bugs as well.
A lazy day and a boat. What
more do you need?
The beaches are sandy not
as glowing yellow as others we've seen, with plenty of shells making more of a
crunch than a squeak underfoot. A problem with almost all the islands we've
visited in Cambodia thanks to ocean currents is that plenty of rubbish gets
washed ashore. Based on the fact so much packaging is written in Vietnamese it
seems a lot comes from there; Phu Quoc is spitting distance from Koh Thmei.
Thankfully Koh Thmei Resort does a grand job of keeping its beaches litter free
with daily tidy ups.
Koh Totang
Koh Totang is a small island just next to Koh Sdach, home of Nomads Land beach bungalows. Without doubt offers some of the best snorkeling in the area, around its rocky coasts hold huge intact coral gardens. It has several beaches westerly and easterly facing. The Nomads Land serve organic meals, sunset cruises, and hammocks where you can enjoy the great view of the sea. It's about 5km north of Koh Sdach.
Koh Totang is a small, wild, naturally stunning, undiscovered and completely
unbelievable island; serene and untouched. There are only nine other lovely
neighbours living here, a few dogs, many secret beaches and plenty of space to
call home.
Nomads Land is the only guesthouse and restaurant on the island – it is
completely undeveloped.
Only 1.3 km by 500 meters in size, you can take an easy 20 minutes jungle hike
to a private beach on the other side or go for a stroll around the island
during low tide in about three hours.
The 11 other islands of this Archipelago, including ours, are almost completely
deserted.
Koh Totang is surrounded in all directions by a beautiful coral reef, it’s
rocky coastline host colourful marine life, beautiful birds and hidden sandy
beaches. Eagles and Falcons soar overhead through the jungle and toucans sing
during breakfast in a nearby tree.
Fireflies, phosphorescence and natural ocean luminescence
leave the beach and sea glowing with neon light.
Thousands of colourful fish and coral just a few meters from the sand and your
bungalow: Puffers, Barracudas, Clown Fish, Jack Fish, Bat Rays, Rabbit Fish,
Parrot Fish, huge Clams…
You can take out one of the paddle boards of Nomads Land. Kayak around the beautiful island, take a walk to the sunset beach, read a book or simply take time out to relax on one of the comfy long chairs on the beach.
Cruise for a whole day around the beautiful Archipelago of Koh Sdach. Enjoy the
freedom of being at sea and check out some of the incredible nature that is
found on the surrounding islands. Start the day off with snorkeling,
sunbathing, swimming, fishing and canoeing from the boat.
Stop on a beautiful stretch of beach for a delicious BBQ lunch. After indulging
in the daily siesta, you can do a bit more snorkeling before heading home to
your bungalow. Accommodation of Nomads Land:
The bungalows focus on simplicity and natural feng shui ensuring that each one
has the perfectly placed hammock-terrace combination, an amazing view of the
sea, and is perfect for a relaxing getaway. Each bungalow has its own
individual character and design, all highlighting a different aspect of Koh
Totang. All the bungalows have light in their rooms and patio. As this is an
eco-guest house, we work to preserve water as much as possible. With the use of
common dry compost toilets and Khmer style shared showers, we are able to
remain sustainable throughout the dry season. Only the Dive Inn & the Hop
Bay Now Bungalows have their private bathroom.
Getting There:
Take the first morning tourist bus heading to
Koh Kong. Times vary but buses usually leave between 7am and 8am – check with
your hotel/hostel. Ask the driver to drop you off at Café Sok Srei (around
three hours from Phnom Penh), which is 6km after the town of Andong Teuk. At
Café Sok Srei they will be able to arrange a seat for you on one of the local
minibuses ($7.5) going small island just next to Koh Sdach, home of Nomads Land
beach bungalows. Without doubt offers some of the best snorkelling in the area,
around its rocky coasts hold huge intact coral gardens. It has two beaches
westerly and easterly facing. To Poi Yopon (around two hours). Poi Yopon is the
local fishing village located in front of the Koh Sdach archipelago.
O’chheuteal
Beach
For an area so small, O’chheuteal
has a surprising array of personality traits. Even the three-kilometre long
beach from which the area takes its name changes character as you stroll or
stagger along it, depending on your fancy. The area includes Serendipity beach,
which is tacked like an arthritic knuckle on to the top of the long straight
finger of O’chheuteal beach; Serendipity Beach Road with its rowdy array of
bars and cheapo guesthouses; and the three 1.5 kilometre streets that run from
Serendipity Beach Road and the gloriously tacky Golden Lions Traffic Circle in
parallel with O’chheuteal beach itself.
Even the beach itself has multiple
personalities. The rambunctious strip of beach bars at the top northern end
segues into an almost equally noisy — thanks to those puissant fireworks of
which so many seem so inordinately fond — but seedy-free section populated by
gregarious Cambodian families offering endless rounds of “Chol moi!” (Khmer for
“cheers”) over their dinners. Then everything quietens out for another few
hundred metres of clear, tree-studded sand before breaking out into the final
section which is lined with a small selection of hotels, a market and
comfortable beach furniture. This part is also largely used by local families,
and accordingly has a much gentler atmosphere than you’ll find at the top.
O’chheuteal’s beach bars are a law unto
themselves it would seem, and the source of countless sleepless nights for
anyone staying within a 200-metre radius. The parties here don’t stop until dawn,
when blinking revelers toke or tap their last before reeling off to their beds,
leaving behind those too poleaxed to walk / maintain consciousness. We hear
more reports of female travellers being raped here than anywhere else in
Cambodia.
And the opportunists come in many other
forms. Theft is common along here, by means surreptitious or
direct (sometimes violent). If you turn your back on your belongings, do not
expect to find them when you turn around again. Scam artists operate
here too, especially the “monks” selling blessings and bracelets. They are not
monks, and all they are selling is hoodwinks. A simple test: if there is a
female in your group, let her reach out her hand to shake his. If he touches
her, he is not a monk.
Just north of the
ferry pier,
you’ll find the rocky stretch overlooked by a jungly hill that is Serendipity
beach. Buried among the palms and banana trees are numerous wooden and bamboo
bunga- lows built by a small number of mid-range guesthouses. The vibe here is
far more relaxed than O’chheuteal, civilised even. The path that takes you
there extends along the coast and around a small headland towards Sokha beach. This is part of a marine
conservation area, and worthy of a short exploration, but make sure you’re
wearing shoes that won’t slip on wet rocks, as it’s quite a clamber in places,
and don’t bring any personal belongings. Like villainous little crabs,
young kids lie in wait ready to pounce and pinch your gear, and they are
reportedly unafraid to be confrontational about it.
Going back up the hill from the ferry pier,
Serendipity Beach Road is flanked by bars, guesthouses and restaurants. This
area has reportedly cleaned up over recent years, thanks to a police anti-drugs
drive, and most of the hang-outs are pretty, and increasingly, respectable. Our
particular favourites are Maybe Later and La Rhumerie,
while Chochi Garden is a welcoming and excellent
value for money guesthouse. At Cresting of the hill, back packer Ville proper
looms, offering plenty of cheap, sometimes free, beds and cheaper beer. That
said, some of the restaurants, like Monkey Republic and Ole, attached to Reef Resort, offer very good
food at great value.
Taking the first right at the top of the hill brings you down Mithona Street,
which runs directly parallel to O’chheuteal beach. For the first 300 metres,
this is home to a number of bars and restaurants, street side grills, massage
joints and a cinema. With regard to massages, the trick is to keep your
expectations low. You will enjoy them all the more, while the cinema is a
pleasant way to get past the searing midday heat. Things taper out after that,
until you get to a large car park which backs on to the section of the beach
where Khmer families tend to hang out. This is also where an ugly monument to
Cambodia Bay’s election as one of “the Most Beautiful Bays in the World”
stands.
Down here, Bar From Home is
a winner, thanks to the friendly staff and unforced sense of fun. But during
high season at least, Mithona Street is still likely to be beset by the hordes,
so if you want to be let alone, you could head one street further back, to 23
Tola Street.
With the construction of
swank new places like OC Hotel, and the above-pictured White Sand Palace Hotel,
23 Tola Street is gentrifying. But it is still home to some busy, good value
street side grills, as well as Nyam, an excellent Khmer food restaurant.
And then for
something completely
different, just beside the White Sand Palace Hotel, we found a new water park
that seriously looks like the most fun we can imagine having with some of our clothes
still on. It will be closed until about August or September 2015, but after
that will be $3 or $5 for children and $5 or $8 for adults, depending on the
time of day, afternoon being more expensive.
The final parallel street
was clearly once the object of some development but, like a February puppy, now
has a sad, waiting-to-be abandoned feel to it. Only time will be tell whether
it might revive again. For the moment, it may just be too far away from the
beach while there are still so many places that are closer. You get the feeling
that somewhere will have to be really outstanding to entice people to stay
along here, and unfortunately none of the guesthouses that rather dully string
along the opening section of this road tick that box.
The last little bit of
O’chheuteal isn’t really on O’chheuteal, but a little bit around the corner on
2 Thnou (2nd Dec.) Street, where you’ll find the very smart and
worthy Sandan, a hospitality training restaurant created by
long-running NGO, Friends International, as well as Marco Polo, an
excellent Italian restaurant. A fewer crowds, great food and chilled beers.
What more could you ask for before diving back into the O’chheuteal melee?
O’tres
Beach
When people talk dirty about Sihanouk
Ville, they’re often really talking about O’chhe- uteal and its environs and
all of the low-grade sleaziness that place exudes like an infected wound. But
there is very much more to Sihanouk Ville than this, with O’tres a
strong case in point. The beach itself is similar to O’chheuteal: three gently curved kilometres of
soft, near white sand facing out to the southwest and an horizon studded with
Sihanouk Ville’s famous islands. But the likenesses end there.
In everything else, O’tres
is another world. Laid back, rural, and far less densely packed, O’tres has a
hippy haven kind of feel to it, though the first tentative steps towards
gentrification have been taken and are already attracting a more mixed crowd.
The beach itself is divided into three sections. O’tres 1 is
the northern end, with an abundance of cheap to mid-range guesthouses, late
night bars, and some new, smarter developments springing up. O’tres 2 is
all the way at the southern end of the beach, where the general atmosphere is
much more sleek, though you can still land some bargain bunks if that’s what you’re
looking for.
In between those two is an
undeveloped stretch of sand topped by spindly trees. According to those we
spoke to, there will soon be development along here but they are expecting big,
flashy hotels to be built on the main road with a clear view out to the sands
and sea. This is why, people say, a strict moratorium has been imposed on
further building out from either O’tres 1 or 2. That view must be kept
unimpeded for the expected throngs of big spenders. It is also expected that
the beachside hotels from Papa Pippo to everything will eventually be cleared
by authorities, though like all things in Cambodia it’s not clear when or even
if that is likely to happen.
However, as part of a res- ponse
to that threat, some places have started to build elsewhere, namely O’tres
Riverside. This is a forested little enclave down the tracks to the south
of O’tres Village, and home to a host of alter- native souls. It is also
starting to see newer, smarter resorts being set up for those seeking a little
more seclusion but still like their comforts.
While Sihanouk Ville is, for some, all about the beaches and
access to the islands, there is plenty more going on too, especially at O’tres
1. If quietly broiling under a relentless sun with sand in your pants and your
food and your cocktails isn’t your idea of ideal, there is plenty more to do to
keep away the horrors. Queenco Palm Beach has a mini-golf course, perfect for
adults and kids alike. If that’s a little sedate for your tastes, then O’tres
Lodge has a volleyball court to get blood pressures up. Then you could dial it
down again with a gentle game of petanque at Pat Pat Guesthouse, or go for
maximum chill with a soothing yoga session at Done Right, which are held twice
a day, at 07:00 and 16:30.
There’s also plenty of sea-based stuff to do.
Mercifully, the jet flyers have been banned, but with steady winds blowing all
through the high season, kite surfing looks like it’s really taking off on
O’tres, and you’ll find O’tres Beach Kite surfing, which offers all the gear as
well as training, opposite Papa Pippo on O’tres 1. Sailors should head to
O’tres Beach Resort on O’tres 2, where they can hire kayaks and Hobie wave
sailboats for a trip out on the waves. Those same breezes make windsurfing off
O’tres an absolute dream, with a long stretch to skim along. In addition to
windsurfers ($12 per hour), Hurricane Windsurfing at the top of O’tres Beach,
also has paddle boards ($9 per hour), and body boards ($7 per hour).
Sailing can be horrifically thirsty work, hence getting the bar as close to the
waves as possible is in fact a deeply humanitarian act.
Inland from O’tres Village, you’ll also find Liberty Ranch, which offers a
range of hourly, half-day and day rides exploring Sihanouk Ville’s beach and
surrounding countryside. This is a truly wonderful way of exploring, and
getting on to trails that you would otherwise never see, and as bird and nature
watching exercise is not to be missed.
If you’d rather tax your brain than your body, Papa Pippo hosts a pub quiz
every Tuesday evening.
For live music, it’s hard to beat the atmosphere at O’tres Market, hosted on
Saturdays in O’tres Village. With loads of stalls selling clothes, food,
jewelry, essentials oils and more, there’s plenty going on here to while away a
happy evening. Papa Pippo also hosts live music gigs on Thursday evenings, with
plenty of the beach bars like Blame Canada and Shin O’tres Beach holding some pretty
impressive dance and DJ parties.
It may look quiet, but you’d actually have to work pretty hard to get bored at
O’tres.
Phnom Leu
- Picnic Resort
Phnom Leu is a nature and cultural
site. There is a pagoda on the mountain top, which offers visitors a panoramic
view of the beaches and Sihanouk Ville international port. Most visitors are
local people who visit the site during national festivals.
Natioal Raod 4,
Kilometer Post
135, Kampong Seila District, Preah Sihanouk Province. Unwind and relax in our
beautiful, clean, natural and privacy wooden cottages overlooking spectacular
vast green mountain range and forest. We can arrange for seminar, meeting or
other corporate event. Please contact us to discuss your plan.
Wat Leu
Wat Leu, Sihanouk Ville is one of
the 5 main Wats in the picturesque port city of Sihanouk Ville. These Wats, or
Buddhist temples, are scat- tered around Sihanouk Ville in Cambodia. Although
Sihanouk Ville is an important port city and is known for its natural treasures
but the Wats made it one of the most Tourists Attractions in Sihanouk Ville.
Wat Leu, Sihanouk Ville located on the Sihanouk Ville Mountain is only 6
kilometers from the provincial town.
Sihanouk Ville,
also known as Kampong Som, is about a 3 hour bus ride towards south west from
the capital Phnom Penh. You can also get there by boat from Koh Kong. Because
of its hilltop location Wat Leu, is commonly known as "Upper
Wat". Wat Leu is surrounded by a beautifully landscaped
forest. The hilltop Wat Leu in Sihanouk Ville offers wonderful views of the
town and islands nearby.
Wat Leu, Sihanouk Ville
is not only a religious and historic site it is also significant from the
architectural point of view. Sihanouk Ville Wat Leu is surrounded by a high
stone wall. There is a three headed white elephant beautifully carved out of
the stone wall with three statues of Buddha on the three heads of the elephant.
The golden colored temple with thatched roofs and traditional design resembles
the pagodas. In front of the stair case that leads to the temple's door there
is a huge statue of Lord Buddha made of black colored stones.
As you climb down the
Sihanouk Ville Mountain pay a visit to Wat Krom, also known as "lower
Wat". The Wat is located along Independence Beach right at the foot of
Sihanouk Ville Mountain. Wat Krom is located amidst the large landscaped
forest. You can get a panoramic view of which from Wat Leu, Sihanouk Ville. Wat
Leu is also ideal for photography. The tranquility and sacredness of the place
attracts the travelers as well as those who are in search of peace.
Apart from Wat Leu,
Sihanouk Ville and Wat Krom, tourists can also pay visits to Wat O’tres,
located behind O’tres Beach and the 2 Wats in Ream National Park. The Outer Wat
is situated on the Road number 4 to Phnom Penh and the Inner Wat is located
amidst the forest in Ream National Park.
Prampi
Chaon Beach
The beach is short and narrow, and the waves are bigger than at
other beaches, making it popular with locals, who favor it most after Sokha
Beach.
Prek Treng
Beach
Also known as the “Hun Sen Beach”
the Prek Treng Beach a few kilometers north of town is a long, narrow cres-
cent of sand, a bit rocky in parts, offering comparatively warm shallow waters. Due to
Prek Treng’s distance from town and complete lack of services (no guesthouses,
restaurants, beach chairs, etc.,) the beach is usually deserted. There is a
nearby development project promising a busy future for Prek Treng, but at the
moment you can have the beach pretty much to yourself. Just remember to bring
drinks and snacks as there are very rarely beach vendors available. To get
there follow Hun Sen Beach Drive north a few kilometers past the port area. The
beach is on the left just past the first bridge and before you reach the oil
port.
Ream
Beach
The untouched beach of Ream is
located in the Ream National Park. Take Route 4 to the Airport road 18km north
of town. Turn right, go 9km to the ocean. The beach to the right is long and
narrow and frequented more by fishermen than tourists. Behind the beach is a
mangrove swamp, which attracts a wide variety of tropical birds. The beaches to
the left nearer the Naval Base now have a few vendors selling drinks and
renting tubes. There is a small $5 per night guesthouse run by the National
Park. Check at the park HQ opposite the entrance to the airport.
The Ream Beach in
Siha- nouk
Ville is the perfect place that takes you away from the crowded life of the
town. Located on the outskirts it is almost a haven for nature lovers. It
brings to you the best of creation and will surely captivate you to come back
to it again and again.
Located at the farthest
end of the town, you have to travel almost 20 Km before you reach the Ream
Beach of Sihanouk Ville. Nevertheless this distance will seem nothing when you
spend those priceless moments in a place which is nothing short of a paradise.
The Ream Beach in Sihanouk Ville is not even difficult to reach because the
road is pretty straight without much turns or twists. From the airport if you
travel along the route 4 towards the northern part of Sihanouk Ville, you will
come quite near this exotic water body. You will also get several public
transports to ferry you to your destination.
The Ream Beach in
Sihanouk Ville is a place that will bring you right in the middle of the
untouched exquisiteness of nature. Being one of the brightest spots within the
premises of the Ream National Park in Sihanouk Ville, it is usually haunted by
the nature lovers. Though the area of the Ream Beach at Sihanouk Ville is not
very large, it is truly one of the most charming among all the beaches in
Sihanouk Ville.
The Ream Beach in
Sihanouk Ville in Cambodia is also one of the few beaches that are landscaped
by mountains and water falls, thus making the entire scene a treat for the eye.
Another major attraction of this beach is the swampy region of mangroves that
grow right at the back of it. You can also see some lovely tropical birds while
looking around the marsh area of the Ream Beach in Sihanouk Ville.
Apart from the
exploration of so
many fascinating things the Ream Beach in Sihanouk Ville is also ideal for
simple relaxation. You can even see the fishermen at work while doing so. Since
it is quite an uninhabited region you will only
find few small stalls at
this Sihanouk Ville sightseeing spot and it is advisable to bring your own
refreshments.
Sokha or
Serendipity Beach
Sokha Beach adjoins O'Cheu- teal
Beach. It is also long though the water is deeper than here. The beach was once
more crowded than O'Cheuteal Beach, because Cambodians prefer it to the other
beaches. However, Oknha Sok Kung's Sokha Hotel Company recently took over
operations at the beach. The company is building up the area in hope of
attracting more tourists to Sihanouk Ville.
Sihanouk Ville's Sokha
Beach wins our vote for the nicest beach in Sihanouk Ville, with its radiant
stretch of fine white sand and shallow waters ideal for floating and lazy days.
The beach is backed by
the huge,
sprawling Sokha Beach Resort, the first though no doubt, not
the last truly flash hotel to plunk down in Sihanouk Ville. Although it's a
shame to see one resort dominate the beach, at least they look after it well
the beach is near always clean and the water sparkling. There is a very shallow
drop off here, so you can wander a long way out into the water before it gets
particularly deep, making it great for those with young children. While we
personally had no problems accessing the beach without being a guest, there
have been persistent reports regarding hotel security guards chasing non-guests
off the beach. One option we guess is to approach the beach through the resort
“one assumes the guards don't have identikits of all the guests” but one would
have hoped this would not have been cessary in the first place.
If you do get chased off,
there is a very small patch of sand in front of Malibu and as they're a pretty
cool lot running this joint we can't imagine they'd chase you off as well.
Sokha Beach Resort is set
amidst 23.5 hectares of beautifully landscaped beachfront and garden with its
own 1.5 kilometers pristine white sandy beach. This property is located just 5
minutes’ drive from the town of Sihanouk Ville. All of the spacious rooms and
suites are tastefully decorated for comfort in traditional ancient and modern
Khmer design. You can also enjoy the magnificent views of tropical garden or
the beautiful sea from your private balcony.
Enjoy a luxurious private
seafront view with perfect gourmet seafood, Chinese and Khmer cuisine and
experience the romantic ambience indoor or in an aluminum fresco setting.
Indulge your senses in an exotic evening experience with singing and dancing
with an extensive selection of worldwide fine wines available at the onsite
Sokha Wine Bar. You can also find a number of more Restaurants and Bars
available onsite for your dining pleasure.
Rejuvenate your mind
body and
soul at the Resort's spa where you can discover the simple joys of life with
endless pampering treatments from head to toe. The state-of-the- art gymnasium
and the swim- ming pool at Sokha Beach Resort & Spa Sihanouk Ville is the
place to unwind after a long day of work or pleasure.
Victory
Beach or Lumhe Kay
The beach is located in front of
Koh Pous (Snake Island). It offers a number of services, including comfortable
rest- rooms, fresh water and good transportation service to Koh Pous. Thus,
many local and international visitors go to this beach. There are many well
organized kiosks along the beach, the waves are not big, and environment is
clean.
Wat
Krom
Located at a distance of 3 kilometers
from the provincial town, Wat Krom, Sihanouk Ville is one of the popular
Tourist Attractions in Sihanouk Ville. The city of Sihanouk Ville is a port
city on the Gulf of Thailand in southern Cambodia and Wat Krom, Sihanouk Ville
is just 5 minutes from the Sihanouk Ville city. Explore the historical sites of
Wat Krom in Sihanouk Ville which has a unique and beautiful architecture. Aka
Wat Krom means “lower Wat” and lying on a small hill on Santepheap St. overlooking
the ocean, Wat Krom in Sihanouk Ville is dedicated to Yeay Mao, a local deity.
Legend
At the crest of the Pich Nil Pass on Route 4 dozens of spirit
houses line the road. Many of the houses are maintained for Yeay Mao, the deity
who oversees the southern coastal region of Cambodia. When is traveling right 4
people often display bananas on their dashboard and offer the bananas, incense
and a little money to Yeay Mao at Pich Nil. The offerings are usually made with
the prayer for safe travels. There seem to be no two identical telling of the
legend. In one telling, Yeay Mao was the wife of a village chief in
the area of Ream.
Her husband was forced by
work to spend months away from her in Koh Kong. One rainy season she grew
lonely for him and took a Koh Kong bound boat to meet him. On the way the boat
was swept away in a storm, drowning everybody, including Yeay Mao. But her
spirit was powerful and through dreams and spirit possessions she made it known
that she was overseeing the southern coast and protecting the fishermen and
villagers. She required only their good behavior and occasional offerings of
phallic symbols.
The main spirit house at
Pich Nil is adorned with phallic symbols but why Yeay Mao makes
this demand is a matter of debate. Some people say that she was seeking this in
her ill-fated trip and so still desires it. Others say that she is angry at men
because she died trying to get to her husband and wants a symbol of a severed
phallus. Sidestepping the debate some more conservative members of the
community think that Ya-Mao is now too old for phallic symbols and requires
only bananas.
Phallic symbol offerings
can still be seen on the beaches near fishing villages, usually in the form of
a stick and incense stuck in the sand under a tree. Wat Khrom in Sihanouk Ville
maintains a small but significant temple for Yeay Mao.